Denim Blanket Coat
This loose fitting blanket style coat is my first pattern involving STEEKS. I (probably like you) was afraid of steeks, what with all the cut ends to finish off somehow. It seemed like it would all unravel as I attempted to negotiate those cut rows! This time though, the unraveled ends seemed perfect for the blanket fringe I had in mind, so I gave it a go. I love the results, and although it was a bit of work to make the fringe, I did it in a way that was totally manageable, and will try to walk you through in words and photos.
This is NOT a beginner pattern.
Yarn: DK weight that knits to gauge**** please knit a swatch and block and measure! Approximately 500 grams or 1200 yards. (I used a mill end cone of merino tape, so exact yarn will not be available)
Needles: 24” circular needles, 4mm or whatever hits the gauge.
2 stitch markers. Long stitch holder or spare circular needle to hold stitches not being used.
Fringe twister (optional, you could hand braid the fringe)
Gauge: 17 stitches = 4 inches in stocking stitch (after blocking) on 4mm needles. I knit loosely so you may need 4.5 or 5mm to get my gauge.
Sizes: Small (fits 32-36”bust),[ Med/Large (fits 38 – 42”), XL (fits 44 – 48”)]
The body of this coat is worked in the round until armholes, then the back and front are worked separately. “Steeks” are then cut and unraveled to create a front opening, and a fringe.
Body: With circular needles, cast on 12, place marker, cast on 170[188,210], place marker, cast on 12. Carefully join without twisting, and begin pattern:
Knit 12, slip marker, seed stitch 170[188,210], slip marker, knit 12.
Repeat this row until 1.5 inches of seed stitch are done.
Change to body pattern: Row 1, 2, and 3, knit every stitch.
Row 4, 5, and 6: knit the 24 steeks stitches (the short section between the markers) and purl the 170[188,210] body section stitches.
Repeat rows 1 through 6 for the horizontal rib pattern.
Work until length from the beginning is 17”[18”, 19”], or length you want to the underarm.
Divide your front from the back like this: Beginning at first marker (continuing the ribbing pattern), work 45[50,56 ] cast off 6 stitches, work in pattern next 68[76, 86] stitches, cast off next 6 stitches *place last 68 [76,86 ] stitches on stitch holder or spare circular needles. Work in pattern until last stitch marker.
Now you will work the ribbing pattern and maintaining the steek (24 stitches between the markers) without joining the circular needles ….
You are working from underarm to underarm and the steek stitches are in the MIDDLE of the front.
Continue ribbing pattern and the steek stitches are now stocking stitch (knit the right side, purl the wrong side) Until you have 9[9, 10] inches from the underarm split. Next row: Cast off loosely until first marker, remove marker and work to end of row. Next row: cast off loosely until last marker: You now have only the 24 stitches between the marker “live”. Do not cast these off! Place these on a stitch holder, and place back stitches (from holder ) back on circular needle.
Work these stitches in the ribbing pattern until you have 9[9,10] inches done. Cast off all stitches loosely.
Cast on 34[38,42] stitches. Work in seed stitch for 1.5 inches. Change to stocking stitch and work for 3 inches, INCREASING one stitch each end every four rows. At 3 inches, work three repeats of the 6 horizontal ribbing pattern. Return to stocking stitch for the rest of the sleeve. Always increase every four rows until you have 76[78, 82] stitches, then continue without increasing until you have 17 inches from the start (or length you would like for the sleeve to the underarm).
Cast off 5 stitches at the start of next two rows.
Cast off 6 stitches at the start of next two rows.
Cast off 8 stitches at the start of next two rows.
Cast off all the rest of the stitches.
Steek Cutting: (photos below) carefully, find the center of the 24 steek stitches, and cut between the stitches all the way down the front. Do not unravel yet.
Starting at one end. Pull out two threads and using the fringe twister, create a twisted fringe and tie a knot to hold it. OR if you do not have a fringe too, you can pull three threads and braid them to the end, tying a knot there to hold it.
Work all the way down one side and up the other. Watch that you do not pull too hard, you want the edge of the body to lie nice and flat. Take your time. It will be beautiful when done. The cast on row can be a bit tricky but unravel it too. Braid four strands at the end if there is one left alone.
Once the fringing is done, you can sew a 4 inch shoulder seam, starting at the armhole.
Sew your sleeve seam.
Pin the sleeve evenly into the armhole and sew in place.
Gently wash and block your new coat!