Friday, August 26, 2011

Merino Mohair V-Neck

If you have ever purchased hand dyed yarns, you will notice that they usually suggest using two skeins at a time and alternate skeins every two rows to create an even colour fabric. I picked up four skeins of Merino Angel when I was in Nova Scotia in June. The colours of the skeins were similar, but definitely different. This sweater uses two skeins at a time and decided to “colour block” them… Half of the front is one skein and the other half another, then when the blocks were approximately square, I switched the sides, and used the same skeins on the other half. I repeated once more before the piece was full length. The close up photo at the bottom shows the place where the colours change. It is subtle, but I like the effect and it is a much more even way of mixing odd colours.
Yarn: Fleece Artist Merino Angel
Needles: 4mm (US 6)
Gauge:17 sts and 24 rows = 4 inches
Finished size: 40 inches (designed to be a bit loose and oversized for me)
Pattern (optional) if you have hand dyed yarns, place a marker at the center of row, and use one ball of yarn on one side, then another for the other side, twisting the yarns around each other as you cross from one side to the other (intarsia). When each block is approx. square, change the side that each ball is used. Repeat when square again. If your yarn is one colour don’t do this, it won’t show anyway. You could also use solid and completely different colours for more dramatic effect!
Back: Cast on 81 sts, work in knit one, purl one ribbing for 5 rows, then increase 11 sts across the next row in ribbing.
Change to stocking stitch (knit right side, purl wrong side) and work even until 19 inches from the start.
Armhole: Cast off 4 sts at the start of next two rows. Continue even from there until piece measures 29 inches from the start. Cast off all stitches.
Front: Work same as back until armhole.
Armhole: Cast off 4 stitches at start of next two rows. Next row (divide for Vneck): Work 39 sts, join second ball of yarn, cast off 6 sts, work remaining 39 sts with second ball of yarn.
Continue to work upper fronts, decreasing one stitch at each neck edge every 4th row 15 times (working both sides at the same time with separate yarn balls.) Finish to 29 inches with no further decreases, then cast off both shoulders.
Sleeves: Cast on 45 sts, work ribbing for 6 rows, then in stocking stitch, increase one st at each side, very 4th row until 86 sts are on the needles. Continue even until 19 inches long, then cast off all stitches.
Sew shoulder seams.
Neck finish: with small circular needles, pick up approx.. 100 stitches around the neck edge starting at the bottom of the v **** leave the 6 cast off stitches at the bottom of the V untouched... Work up the left side of the V, across the back of the neck and down the right side. Turn and work back up the right side in K1,P1 ribbing (do not join and work around the circle!) Work total of 6 rows of ribbing, then cast off loosely in ribbing. Sew the ends of the ribbing down to the 6 cst off sts.
Sew the sleeves into the armhole opening. Then sew the sleeve and side seams.



Anonymous said...

Thanks!!!...been looking all over the net for a simple mohair jumper to knit...this is perfect!:))

Kathy Dychton said...

Great basic pattern, but "one size fits all" doesn't work for me.

chris said...

this one is easy to resize. Add (or subtract) 2 sts to front and 2 sts to back, for EACH inch of size you want it bigger or smaller. The whole thing is square, so no further shaping issues, until you get to the front v-neck, where you need to make sure you start it in the new CENTER!.
If you are trying this, I would happily take emails to confirm your numbers. First knit a swatch to check your gauge.

Anonymous said...

this pattern looks easy and beautiful. I'm confused though as to what weight of yarn to use? I'm a beginner so I need everything pretty simple. thanks,

chris said...

The weight of the yarn is similar to DK, but mohair is a bit different, as it looks finer, but knits up light but thicker. So a light DK or sport weight that knits to gauge (always knit a swatch, then wash it and block it and dry it, before measuring the swatch for gauge)